Kathmandu

October and November bring clear skies and mountain views after the monsoon, and are the busiest months. March and April are warm, with flowering rhododendrons in the hills, though haze can hide the peaks. December to February is cold at night but often clear. The monsoon, June to September, is wet and cloudy.

• Thamel

  The busy travellers' quarter: guesthouses, cafés, gear shops and the trek agencies, a walk from Durbar Square.

  Good for: First visits, Budgets, Trekkers

• Patan

  A quieter old city across the river, with its own Durbar Square, courtyards and craft workshops.

  Good for: Culture, Slow trips

• Boudha

  Around the great stupa, calm in the evenings, with monasteries and rooftop cafés.

  Good for: Couples, Reflection

1. 1

   Kathmandu Durbar Square

   The old royal palace square, with temples, courtyards and the home of the Kumari, the living goddess. A ticket is charged for foreign visitors.

2. 2

   Boudhanath Stupa

   One of the largest stupas in the world. Join the walk around it, clockwise, at dusk when the lamps are lit.

3. 3

   Swayambhunath

   The 'monkey temple' on a hill west of the centre, with views over the valley. Several hundred steps lead up from the east side.

4. 4

   Bhaktapur

   The best preserved of the valley's three royal cities, about an hour away. Try its famous curd, juju dhau.

5. 5

   Pashupatinath

   Nepal's holiest Hindu temple, on the Bagmati river. Non-Hindus may not enter the main temple but can watch from across the river; be respectful of the cremation ghats.

Dal bhat, rice with lentils and vegetable curry, is the daily meal and is usually refilled for free. Try momos (dumplings), Newari dishes in Patan and Bhaktapur, and masala tea everywhere.

On foot

The old centres are best walked; the lanes are narrow and the traffic slow.

Taxis and ride-hailing

Agree a fare before you get into a taxi, or book through an app such as Pathao or inDrive.

Domestic flights

The usual way on to Pokhara or Lukla. Flights are often delayed by weather, so leave slack in your plan.

• Walk clockwise around stupas and temples, and ask before photographing people at prayer.
• Kathmandu sits at about 1,400 metres. It is not high enough for most people to feel it, but treks beyond it need time to acclimatise.