Bangkok

November to February is the cool, dry season and the most comfortable time to walk the city. March to May is very hot. June to October is the rainy season: showers are usually heavy but short, and hotels are cheaper.

• Old Town

  Around the Grand Palace and the river. Walk to the big temples and catch boats from the piers.

  Good for: First visits, Sightseeing

• Sukhumvit

  Hotels, restaurants and nightlife along the Skytrain line, with easy links across the city.

  Good for: Getting around, Food lovers

• Riverside

  Hotels on the Chao Phraya with their own boats, and views of the temples at night.

  Good for: Couples, Slow trips

• Silom and Sathorn

  The business district: practical, central and close to Lumphini Park.

  Good for: Business trips, Short stays

1. 1

   The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew

   The former royal palace and the temple of the Emerald Buddha. Go early, cover your shoulders and knees, and ignore anyone outside who says it is closed today.

2. 2

   Wat Pho and Wat Arun

   The great reclining Buddha, then a short ferry across the river to Wat Arun, best in the late afternoon light.

3. 3

   Chinatown after dark

   Yaowarat Road fills with food stalls in the evening: noodles, seafood, sweets and fruit. Come hungry and walk.

4. 4

   Chatuchak Weekend Market

   Thousands of stalls of clothes, crafts, plants and food, open on Saturdays and Sundays. Go in the morning, before the heat.

Bangkok is one of the world's great street-food cities: pad kra pao, boat noodles, mango sticky rice and grilled pork skewers at every corner. Halal food is easy to find around the city's mosques and in the Arab quarter off Sukhumvit Soi 3.

Skytrain and metro

The BTS Skytrain and MRT are the quickest way across the city and air-conditioned. Buy a stored-value card for many rides.

River boats

The Chao Phraya Express boats link the old town, Chinatown and the riverside hotels, and the ride is a sight in itself.

Taxis and ride-hailing

Ask for the meter in a taxi, or book through an app. Traffic is heavy at rush hour, when the train is faster.

• Temples ask for covered shoulders and knees; carry a light scarf or wear long trousers.
• From Suvarnabhumi Airport, the Airport Rail Link reaches the city in about half an hour.